Wednesday, February 21, 2007

ITALY THIRD TIME AROUND






ROME AGAIN
22/12/06
They say that you have to throw a coin with your back to the Trevi fountain to guarantee a revisit. Well, they lied. We threw the coin facing it two years ago and we still managed another visit to the Eternal City. Flew SQ this time, seemed the most reasonable of the lot, supplying another item to the Ripley’s ‘Believe it or not’ pages. (It was a 13 hour flight, direct, but didn’t feel like it).

Reached Fumicino at 6 am. The place has changed a lot from our last visit. After checking out, (the immigration guy suggested that we should come in summer when we told him we’ll be going to Sorrento), we took a shuttle to the baggage claim area, and we were out of the airport. Bought ticket at the counter for the Leonardo Express (11 euros), had coffee at the station café, and boarded an almost empty train to the Termini, which hadn’t changed much. It was cold. Came straight out (unlike the last time), took a taxi from the stand (there was no queue), to our hotel Gea Di Vulcano. The ride cost us 8 euros, when I pointed the meter reading which was 5 euros, the driver pointed to the luggage. I had forgotten that they charged for the baggage here.

Francesca, at the reception, checked us in. (Had to lug the bags up a flight of stairs though.) The room was by far the biggest we’ve had anywhere in Italy so far with a good sized toilet. Went to a restaurant next door for breakfast, then went walking around town. Past the ever-present Piaza Venezia (photo!), ambled onto a place mentioned in TimeOut for wine, then to Zozzone for pizza. Ended up at Tre Scalini for tartuffo,(the Bernini statue was under renovation), looked like the friendly people had left the place. Went back and turned in early, as it gets dark early in December.

23/12/06

Up early. After a decent breakfast, went to Termini to book tickets to Naples (from where you go to Sorrento), took the Metro to Laurentina for outlet shopping. The friendly people at the hotel couldn’t find out the details but we managed to find out from a tourist booth along the way. It was more like far-outlet shopping. After getting off at the last stop, asked for info at the counter, where we were directed to the Cotral bus stop across the road. We bought tickets, didn’t know which bus to take, went back to the station but they said they don’t know. So back to the bus station counter where they seemed to speak English. Managed to take the right bus, and find out that some woman on the bus was getting off at the same stop. At least that’s she said in Italian which we didn’t understand much. The bus dropped us off in the middle of nowhere (the bus stop that doesn’t exist even has a name on it!). We followed the kind woman who was walking too fast, across the highway, over some bushes, through the desert, past the Pyramids and then to Castel Romano (it’s just after Alexandria, take a left from the Nile).

The place was full of locals, there was not a single tourist except us. Which is a good sign, it means good deals. There may have been but we didn’t buy any, save for some chocolates at a Lindt shop. Since it started to drizzle we took a taxi (at the information office they can book you one) to Pomezzio, from where we took a bus to Laurentina. (The taxi driver told us there was a free shuttle bus to Piazza Republica but that was at 6 pm said the counter girl adding that it would be crowded.) After reaching the city, went to a closed TimeOut recommended place, came back to the hotel, where the night shift guy Agron, directed us to a place down Via Napoli (the side entrance road), which was not open yet for food but was for vino. Good food. Walked back to Gea and was talking to Agron while getting the key, when he mentioned they have rooms vacant for 3-5 Jan. Seemed like a good idea.

24/12/06

After breakfast, (gave two chocolates each to Francesca and another girl who gave extra cappucnio), cancelled our reservation at Rafaello which was charging more (about 140 euros), confirmed with out hotel for the 3rd and 4th Jan, went to Termini, waited in the lounge meant for Eurostar lounge for ‘Veloce’ treno. Took the train and reached Napoli in the afternoon. Followed the arrows to Circumvesuviana, where a helpful man at the counter told us how to get to Sorrento (the 12.11 not the one coming now but 12.11), bought tickets at the shop next to the booth, walked down to the station, and boarded the train.

It was a bit like the Regionale trains, or a local train. Got off at St.Agnello, took two wrong turns, called the guy at Il Rosetto who said to take the other road we haven’t, and walk down. In about ten minutes or more we reached the place. (Incidentally, the instructions on the Net say it’s a few steps away. Unless you are Yeti, it’s more than that.) Lovely little place with the room window opening onto a little orchard of orange and lemon trees and the mountains in the distance.

Went to the city centre which was about a ten-minute walk from the hotel. Beautiful place, typical hill station feel. Except this has views of Mt.Vesuvius, the sea and other hills. Found a place that was open for food, had good pizza and wine and a not so good cappuccino. Ours was the last order for they were closing for the holidays. The festive cheers of the waiter seemed to double as he went around telling everyone his wife left him. Went walking around for a while, came back to the Piazza Tasso, the main square. Sat at Bar Ercolana, and watched people and life walk by over Grappa and wine. Went back.

25/12/06

After saying Buon Natale! Merry Christmas! to people at breakfast (which was ok), went to Ercolano for coffee. Was greeted Italian style by the waiter who served us yesterday, hug, kiss on the right and left (no contact though). Decided to stick to Sorrento as we were not sure if anything would be open. Explored its winding gulleys and alleys and went plodding down to Marine Grande. One restaurant owner came out bleary eyed (Gattusso – Mermaid Today’s Special) to open. Sat out for a while sipping vino then went inside as the temperature dipped. The radio was playing Nights in White Satin Italian version. SMSd Bharath. Digested whatever we had on our walk back up to the hotel.

Went to P.Tasso in the evening, the town was showing signs of life. Sat at Bar Ercolano for some grappa, when a fat dog trundled in, wagged its tail at Apu, came around to my side, waited for me to pat its head, sat down for a while, waited for us to take a picture and as if on cue, went and followed some other guests to their table. The Italians like their dogs, they seem very gentle with animals.

Observation #2: A big man, with mustache and all, sipping a manly beer in the freezing weather, crossed his legs to reveal a pair of pink socks.

Went to Zintonio, bumped into a Bangla waiter and a right wing American lady. Was friendly with one and no so with the other. Not many people were there at the restaurant, hence no menu. So they prepared whatever we asked them to. Decent food.

26/12/06

POSITANO
Took SITA bus to Positano, supposedly the most beautiful place on earth. After a couple of customary wrong turns, took the road opposite Bar Internazionale and found an internet point to ask for directions. There was a friendly English guy who gave us directions. Followed his advice and overshot and found us at the other end of the island. Walked back, found ‘Centro Storico” or the centre , the place we mistook for a car park was the road to the Duomo and the beach. Had an aperole Spritz at a café there, some small pizzas, profiteroles and bought a bottle of Aperole. Walked down, picked up some ceramic souvenirs, went to the beach, the sand is black here.

Trudged our long way back to the bus stop, and waited two hours for the bus to Amalfi, it didn’t come, decided to take the one back to Sorrento, as it was 4.30 by then and it gets dark early, so it’s pointless going sightseeing. Back in Sorrento, discovered a decent place for dinner. The plump waiter (not the one we found the first day) at Bar Ercolano, tried to short change us with a bigger bill, when we pointed it out, was apologetic.

27/12/06

POMPEII
Took train to Pompeii Scavi station, bought tickets and an audio guide. Ruins. Ruins and remnants of a culture that existed, breathed, bought vegetables and meat, prayed, baked bread, engaged in commercial activities, planned streets and city life, dispensed justice, indulged in the oldest profession (there’s proof – the brothels called Lupariums or what’s left of them are still there),buried their dead, plaster-casted their earlier victims of Mt.Vesuvuis before themselves becoming targets for the mountain’s wrath.

They had sun dials, weights and measurements system, but no defence against volcanic ash. Amazing! Sometimes when we look back or see the remains of an earlier civilization, what strikes us most is that they were so much like us. We look for caveman like lifestyle but are awed and surprised that they had wheels and a superb system of governance among other things. We think just because we are here now with our computers and jetplanes, we are the only ones who can lay claim to “civilization”. I think that’s what we find hard to come to terms with, that there was intelligent life way before and they achieved fabulous, monumental things with not a tiny fraction of gadgets we have now. It’s almost how the developed world looks at the third world “ My God. They have radio, wait a minute that’s a satellite dish !”

While returning the audio guides, discovered that there was no bus to Mt.Vesuvius now. So we thought we’d go the church that had attained some fame through some miracle that happened there. Asked at the bookshop at the station, the guy pointed to the bus outside, from which a driver was just getting out, we paid him and got in. In ten minutes he came back, and took us to the church (no one else on the bus) and said to wait there for the return trip. Kids come and ask for money here but we are used to that back home, so no problem there. Went inside a really beautiful church, couldn’t take photographs as service was in progress. Hung around for a while and went back to the bus stop, and as we were looking at the bus timing chart, an elderly man (we had a lot of help from elderly gentlemen this trip), came from behind a minibus, asked us if we were going to the stations, and started the bus. Paid a euro each and got back.

Back to Sorrento. Dinner at a place recommended by an elderly from whom we bought ceramic stuff. We were talking about Italy and how it’s blessed with such beautiful places, and she said she used to go to Florence with her husband for thirty years till a couple of years ago when he passed away. She was wondering if she should go again with her family. We said she should as parents live in their children.

The waiter at the restaurant was from Punjab. Said he was studying in Rome and was here for winter break. Back in India we wouldn’t do that. We have no dignity of labour. No pride in our land or its history. No urge to save what we have for the future generations. Italy is apparently rife with corruption as well but the way they keep their past intact, the pride they have in their country is admirable.

28/12/06

Mt.Vesuvius and Naples
Got up early to catch the train to Ercolano station from where it’s easier to get to Mt.Vesuvius. The Lonely Planet (we couldn’t get TimeOut this time for any of the places we visited, so had to use the LP we bought long time back on W.Europe) as usual warned about illegal operators ripping people off and an elderly couple who hand out sticks for people climbing the mountain. We exited the station and went to what looked like an authentic tourist office, where the guy said it could cost us 16 euros each to climb the mountain, including a minibus ride to the top and back, and entrance fees. It made sense even though we were paying slightly more than we would if we went by regular bus service. Anyway these guys had a bus leaving in under ten minutes. And it did after a family joined us and a bunch of desis talking loudly in Telugu. A friend of mine told me about how obnoxious they get in the US, talking in their language loudly, earning every other desi a bad name. Seems they are studying in Germany, (I initiated the conversation because desis never smile at each other let alone talk), couple of them from Andhra, others from TN and Kerala.

The bus dropped us after a 10-15 minute ride. There are people living on the slopes of the volcanic mountain, defying it to spew its lava-ridden wrath. Tempting fate, if anything. An elderly man was handing out walking sticks to every climber, we declined, not wanting to pay any money later. The climb was manageable, the road winds around a fairly gentle incline, not very steep. There were people working along the sides, sitting in precarious positions, making the trip safe for people like us, God bless them. Along the ascent, you get fantastic views of the city below.

A 30 odd minute walk takes you to the crater. Walked around the rim, looked at the mouth that devoured thousands of lives years ago. Unbelievable! The crater itself is no bigger than a large room but the destruction it unleashed on the city so far below makes you wonder about the intensity of the eruption. Truly awesome, not the American teenager awesome, but in the real sense of the word.

Another 30 plus minute walk and we were back at the minibus stop (didn’t see anyone paying the old man so lonely planet is wrong again), which took us back to the station. From where we took the train onwards to Napoli. It’s hard to go to Naples without preconceived notions says the guide and it’s true. Most people we asked about said it was ‘pericolos’ meaning dangerous. The guy at the hotel said don’t wear jewellery and don’t carry bags. We had to carry a bag, so we did, Apu wasn’t wearing much jewellery so it was ok. The city has a definite energy. The streets were thronging with people, the air bursting with raw, chaotic energy. You can cross the road anywhere, drive as recklessly as you can, in fact I thought even I could rent a car and start driving (I can’t drive, if you know what I mean). So the traffic is pretty much like in Indian cities.

The main motivating factor for the visit was pizza of course. It was born here and there are a couple of places vying for the most authentic title. The first one mentioned in the guide was Da Michele had so many people outside its doors, we didn’t have a clue what was going on, whether there was a queue system, were there tickets issued, or did one just wait endlessly? No idea. After ten minutes we decided to seek out the next one on the list: Sorbillo. Walking through the alleys with houses on both sides connected by arches, we found Sorbillo. We also found more crowd. But we decided to wait it out as that’s what the crowd seemed to be doing. After an hour, we went in to the small place with just about four tables which explained the crowd outside and the long wait, and had three pizzas. Absolutely delicious.

Walked down a bit and found a café to have a nice espresso with peperencino (aphrodisiac, said the guy). Bought some chocolates there and on the way back found the Subterranean sign. Michael at the B&B told us about the subterranean (Sotterranea it’s called) Napoli. We went in time for the English tour to start. As we were talking to the lady there, she said they have an Indian working with them. Surprised, we were asking about him when he came unannounced and unprepared to meet fellow desis. Dinesh is from Kerala, he has been in Naples for 3 years. A trained electrical engineer he does whatever job he gets at the museum. He said he was lucky, unlike some of the other people who came with him, led by conmen agents, who still had no job and were living in cramped quarters. Happens in Singapore too, but the stick is more daunting than the lure of the carrot, so not many come illegally nowadays I think. Things people do for a living! When I asked him why he didn’t go back where at least he would have his family, he echoed Apu’s sentiment, that the family needs money just as much and he had lost a fair bit which he can’t recoup there.

The tour guide came around 7 pm and took us on a memorable journey back in time to when the Greeks came and built the underground city to how the Romans used it as an aqueduct to the WWII days when it served as a bomb shelter. At one time the city used it as a garbage dump. Fortunately it was all cleaned up and now part of the underground city is open to the public. After checking if any of us is claustrophobic, he took us through the tunnels, some of which you could walk through only sideways, and explained this is how ancient Romans cleaned the aqueducts. Of course they didn’t walk on the ground, they walked using the footholds carved into the sides of the walls, with a candle. As did we, in an effort to mimic their experience.

Met Dinesh on the way back as he asked us to and had a chat, he was explaining why he had to come. He even offered to put us up at his lodgings. Good man. Of course like any decent desi, he said he wished he could feed us something now that we had come to his place. We said it was quite all right and left him.

Came back with bags and us intact. Arohara!





29/12/06

Capri

Up earlyish. Took the winding path down from P.Tasso to reach the ferry point. A hydrofoil was leaving in five minutes. We bought tickets and boarded the large ferry with a fair amount of Oriental tourists. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the island of Capri. Once we were there, we found there was a smaller ferry leaving for the famed Grotto Azuro or the Blue Grotto. Quickly picked up tickets at the booth, and got in. The water is an incredible Royal blue Black ink colour, the sea is almost like black velvet, undulating sheet.

We reached the Blue Grotto entrance, and admired the houses etched into to the sides of the mountains rising from the sea, while waiting for the previous load of tourists to finish. Then it was our turn. Another smaller boat with an oarsman, came to pick us up, we were the first to get in as we were not in a group. The small boat takes about 4-6 people. The oarsman/guide, in decent English, told us to sit down with legs to one side (you don’t squat or stand), and said if we were happy with his services we can give him a token of a euro.

Bobbing up and down, we purchased one more pair of tickets from another boat where two guys were bobbing up and down and issuing tickets. Then it was off into the Grotto, (the oarsman enters the cave and hauls himself (and the passengers) in holding on to a cable type thing outside the cave). The rest defies description, even photographic ones. It was just absolutely beautifully. There’s some physics at function here, the sunlight that enters the cave gets refracted by the water inside and is thrown up to your retina, producing the marvellous blue effect. It’s an ethereal, luminous, pale beautiful blue, you’ve got to see it. We went around the cave for 5 minutes, the walls echoing with the loud songs of the oarsmen, the gasps of the tourists and the popping of flashbulbs. Came out, gave a euro for each of us and got back into the ferry (one at a time warned the friendly oarsman), waited for the rest of the boatload to finish their tour. We noticed our small boat guy was the best of the lot as the others hurried passengers, didn’t tell them how to sit, and demanded money.

Came back ashore and, after a quick café and a sandwich (caprese, of course), bought tickets for the cable car to go up to the island. It’s more like a cable train with 4 carrriages. The information office at the docks had told us not to miss the Giardini, so we went to the Gardens which offer mesmerizing views of the sea. We went walking around the small town before and after that, Apu bought shoes from a friendly Sarah J Parker look alike girl at a shop (who said she would phone her other shop and see if they have the size we wanted and keep it, and if it fits we can pick it up at 4 pm).

We took a small bus to Anacapri, about a ten minute ride away. After a quick look at a church, went to Il Saraceno (recommended by the guide book), for a good meal served with big smiles. Strangely there are cactus plants all over the place, so thinking they were a little out of place called Encyclopedia Bharat who said they grow wherever there’s rock and moisture and sunlight. Satisfied, finished the meal, asked for directions to the bus stop, and immediately got lost. An elderly gentleman out for his early walk, took us all the way to the bus stop. Don’t know which other bus ride between town offers stunning views of the sea and mountains but this one does.

Went back, picked up shoes, spent some time at the main square where some show was happening. Met a couple of desi boys taking pictures. Turns out one is from Madurai and the other from Bangalore. I took a picture of them and they returned the favour.

Took the cable train back, and after a 10-15 minute wait, took the hydrofoil back. The walk back up the steps to P.Tasso knocked the wind out almost. Met Vicky from Punjab working in Sorrento, chatted as much as anyone who has climbed all those steps could, and went to Bar Ercolano. Some concert was about to start, so went back, bought water at the usual place, had some drinks at Jenny’s Bar (we kept seeing it every day on our way to and from the square, so we thought we should try it at least once), where we were the only patrons. The friendly guys put up a gas stove on a pole which works as a heater. Some of their mates came, are hollered from their vehicles, one of them said the Italian equivalent of ‘how you doing?’, and after a while we left. The concert sure was going to be packed as we saw a huge line of vehicles waiting to go in that direction.

30/12/06

Sorrento – Taormina
Checked out after breakfast, as we wanted to take the early train out to Naples,from where we can go to Taormina. At Sorrento Circumvesuviana station, the ticket machine swallowed Apu’s ticket. Tried to explain it to the elderly man at the counter, he tried to explain something which I didn’t understand, finally he came out, extricated the ticket, and told us to go through the bigger turnstile as we had luggage but that didn’t have a validating machine, another staff said we could get it done on the train. But there was no conductor. We just hoped no one would check at the Napoli station as we had seen them do a couple of days ago. Unvalidated tickets cost you a hefty fine in Italy. Luckily, there was no one to check.

At the Napoli Centrale, found the same girl who issued us tickets at the counter, she said she didn’t know which platform we should go and that we should look at the board, and that there were no first class seats available today on out train. We, luckily again, had got the last two seats when we came and booked a couple of days ago, when we visited Naples.

Used to Eurostar style and not sure of what this IC (InterCity) train was like, we were waiting beneath the departure board when an elderly man who looked like a railway staff (he had anm on his shirt), approached us and asked us if we were going to Roma. We said no, then he asked us if we were going to Firenze, to which we said no, wondering why he wanted to know. You see, with all you read about Naples in guide books, you just don’t know who to trust (besides he wanted to see our ticket). Even noble intentions get distorted through the veil of perceptions you put on with the stuff you read in guide books. Then he asked where we were headed, we said Taormina. And he started rattling off in Italian and we guessed that he was trying to tell us the Taormina bound train doesn’t leave from there and that we have to go to another stazione Piazza Garibaldi. He guided us to the top of the staircase that led to the other station and was going to take us there, but genuinely we had to grab something to eat, so we told him we need to eat and thanked him for his help. If that wasn’t Divine intervention, we don’t know what is. He was chatting with someone, saw us and came and helped us for no reason! Amazing! Arohara! We double checked it at the information counter and had a bite to eat, had coffee. A lady asked money for the bambino, we said no and later saw her smoking. That’s what the money is for then.

Waited a while as we reached early. We asked a couple about the train and they said IC is ok, nothing to worry about, they were not sure where carozza 3 would come. Hoping the train would stop longer than Eurostar did at Venice, we made a dash for our coach when the train came to the other end of the platform. Lugged our bags in and luckily the seats were near the entrance. The cabin had 6 seats with a narrow walkway which also had foldable single seats at regular intervals. Only one man was there, As the train left, on time, we were treated to superb views of the sea! It runs along the coast offering fantastic views of the Tyrrhenian sea. Later we were joined by a lady and two noisy kids who luckily got off after 2 hours.

At Villa San Giovanni, the whole train (we had heard and read about it but had to experience it ourselves), goes into a ferry and gets carried across the straits to Messina! The locals were not all that surprised, they said it was like taking your car only this is a train. The train goes into a hold in the ferry’s bottom, and you can step out and go to the deck till it reaches the other side or sit inside the train, inside the moving ferry, and live the Galilean relativity experience. Are you moving if you are not moving? It is soon answered when the train rolls out of the ferry and is back on terra firma again after a 15 minute ride.

We reached Taormina (in the meantime got to know the other passenger in the cabin) at 8.15, , the station is quite pretty with paintings on the ceiling and a fairly brusque elderly man at the counter who said, ‘No English’ when I asked him about trains to Rome. Outside, the taxi we’d asked the hotel yesterday to book wasn’t there to pick us up. After calling the hotel (Pensione Svizzera) a couple of times and learning that they couldn’t contact the driver, we took a taxi from the rank outside the station. The hotel people said it was safe and that they normally charge 15 euros. Which was exactly how much Giovanni charged as he handed his card in case we wanted his services later. (It was a black Mercedes taxi without a taxi sign on top.) Lugged the bags down a flight of stairs to the reception area, where while checking in, we learnt that the pick-up driver had gone to the airport looking for us! Lugged bags again, 4 breathless flights of stairs this time, but the view from the balcony of the sea and the mountains was worth it. Room 22. Went to a hotel recommended place called Tiramisu round the corner for dinner. Good food.

31/12/06

Taormina

After a decent breakfast, asked the reception to book a place at a nice restaurant to celebrate the new year (an elederly lady who earlier speaking German at the breakfast hall was telling the girl at the reception about the possibilities we have), explored Taormina, possibly the most picturesque and beautiful town so far.

You go through the arch and walk around its cobble-stoned alley with shops selling antiques, souvenirs, pastries, film rolls, and other assorted stuff on either side and you reach what the guide calls the obscenely beautiful piazza Aprile It is. The square offers fantastic views of the sea, the snow-capped Etna (no trips now as there it was too cold plus there was some lava-related issue as well), and the distant mountains.

We sat at one of the tables of Café Wunderbar which offers exhilarating views at slightly exorbitant prices. But it was worth it. The Fuji picked the most appropriate moment in the most beautiful place to inform us that the card was full. Went to a camera shop where they said they don’t have memory card for it as it’s an old model. Old? We just bought it 4 years ago! Went to one of the ‘Download photos to a disc for 5 euros’ places, did that, cleared the card, found out where to get the best cannola and headed for Niko bar. It was good.

Went back to the hotel, where we found a rolled-up note in the key cabinet informing us that a table has been booked at Ristorante L’orologio, near the piazza. We were sitting down and sipping a Grappa when the elderly lady who was offering suggestions earlier, stopped by and started talking to us. After telling her how we think Italy is the most beautiful country in Europe as no others seem to have been blessed like the shoe-shaped country has with natural beauty, good food, good wine and lovely people, and that not much is there to see in Germany, we realized she was from Fatherland but shared our view. Had studied chemistry she said when I told her what I did in college. She was recommending a few places outside to go to. After thanking her and another Grappa, went to the restaurant by 9. The square was teeming with people. Bright lights, the people and the moon all, to quote Sting.

The restaurant served mainly fish for the 7 course dinner assured the hotel people. Being on holiday and emboldened by the previous Grappas, I was ready as I reached for the sparkling wine that was on the house as a starter to the champagne that was waiting in the ice bucket. All guests were handed masks, and party hats and pipes to make ludicrous noise. Then came the oysters! I’ve never tried and was not about to say no considering we’d paid 80 euros a head. So I had everything from oysters to smoked salmon, something baked, to lobster and ended with a steak. Then there were fireworks and more champagne. When we left it was 12.30. Walked back shouting Buon Anno back to cheerful citizens.

1/1/07

Taormina
Buon Anno! Went to the bus station about 3 minutes away to go to Messina. Not many buses at the stazione. Just as we wondering how odd that was, the German lady (Marga, who visits Taormina often), was there to post some cards. She saw us, walked over and told us there won’t be any buses today when she learnt of our plans. There is bus service on threee days a year, she informed us, on New Year’s day, Easter and Xmas. She offered then offered to show us the way to the Giardini Naxos station, where we can find out if the trains are working. Along the way she showed us a photopoint and took a photo of us. Further along just before the road road turns downwards, she pointed to holes in the wall which were in anorderly fashion and said the Arabs used to bury their dead there. Then she pointed to caper vines and said che aa che o three, Calcium carbonate,I answered. Apparently they wherever there’s calcium carbonate and moisture. Thanking her profusely (otherwise we’d have spent another hour), we began the long walk down.

After an hour we reached the station, where the same grumpy guy was there from two days ago, only he was grumpier to be working on a public holiday when even buses didn’t ply. We discovered to our shock that all trains to Rome on the 3rd were completo! There were two postis (seats) today then realized it was not the end of the world, stopped panicking, cancelled it, and called for a taxi back to the hotel. The day clerk is quite useless and unresourceful, like asking us if we have the number for the train station etc., Asked her to look for trains on the net and block seats on the plane.

Walked around the town some more. Went to a nice little café called 60/67 which we saw yesterday. A pretty lady came rattled out a lot of stuff in Italian about the menu, and continued to rattle on after we informed her we parlo non italiano. The lady next to us kindly translated what she meant. The gist is the wine is good and the food is vegetarian ( I’d had enough of non veg for a long time to come). It was indeed. The grilled vegetables tasted like a Porta Porta dish. Their young son came out with a remote controlled Ferrari, which soon changed hands to the grandfather and then the dad. After the food, we asked them where to get the best cassata (always ask the locals), and the guy said Minatauro, round the corner. Took the wrong t urn (again), but went to the Minatauro that sold wines etc, they pointed us to their dolci outlet near the taxi stand. Went there, had a sickeningly sweet but delicious casatta, bought some other dolci items.

Walked down further and wound up at the Teatro Greco, built in 3 BC. The horseshoe theater overlook the sea and hence offers stunning views of the sea from one side and of distant towns and mountains from another. The theatre brought out a lot of histrionics from a few of the visitors though. Picked up an Il Padre tee shirt (if not in Sicily, where else?) from a shop that was closing.

Went to Maffei’s restaurant a good one according to Lonely planet but needs reservation. We were just passing by when the door opened and we asked if that was Maffei as there was another restaurant next to it, he said it was, we asked if there was table for two, he said , and in we went (actually took my coat, one of those places never been to before). Opted for vegetarian fare even though they specialise in fish. Returned to hotel after picking up some souvenirs. They sell handmade faces of Mafioso, Judicio etc, well-crafted stuff.

Woke up to an annoying, persistent noise which turned to be the fire alarm. Opened the door and saw some people going down. We took our passports, money, (and Skanda kavacam) to go down when I saw people coming back saying it was a false alarm. Not many people took it seriously I think, I saw my neighbour waiting for his wife comeback with the news!

2/1/07

Catania & Messina
Buses were back on the road today. Went to Catania which takes about an hour and a half. The town looks like a mix between Florence, Milan and Rome. Beautiful, old buildings, a neat grid system. A passing woman told us that was the main street as if reading our mind. Wailing police cars weaved their way against the morning traffic, with the guy inside waving his hand from the window to indicate it was urgent perhaps. Asked a police woman where the Duomo was and followed her directions and reached a piazza which had a circular café stand with brass coffee machines. Bought two coffees and spilt them immediately as the sleeves of my jacket got in the way. Bought two more (Attenzione, advised the young shop keeper boy).

Walked on to the Duomo side after asking a few more people for directions. Very impressive architecture all along the way to Piazza Duomo, which is a UNESCO heritage site apparently. The Fontanelle dell Elefante is made of lava and lime stone, dates back to Roman time. Has an obelisk on top. The meat and vegetable market that inspired Reno Gatusso’s painting, was next to the café where we grabbed a bite but it was around noon so we thought we’d give it a miss.

Walked back to the autobus stazione and caught a bus to Messina that wasleaving in 5 minutes. After everyone was onboard, everyone got off after hearing a loud noise and smelling something burning. Turned out the engine had blown. ‘Nothing works in this country’, muttered a disgruntled passenger as we got off. The next bus came in ten minutes. It started raining in huge sheets as we reached Messina but stopped just as we alighted. Bought return tickets, went to an information office where we met a friendly man who told us where we can go in the time we had.

Messina is an ancient port town, dating back to Greco Roman times. We went around, walked along the harbour where the term Scylla and Charybdis comes from, as the currents there make swimming unadvisable. Went to a café at Piazza Cairoli, had canola and coffee and headed back to the bus station. The bus wasn’t there, and the guy at the counter said the six o clock bus will be in later or something. From what the people going in the same direction, we gathered it won’t go to the bus stop at Taormina but to the Funvia or the cable car station which was next to our hotel. But this won’t go up! A mid-fortyish lady said she was heading the same way, so follow her. We did just that and she asked if anyone on the bus spoke English to help us. When the driver came he was trying to tell us the same thing about Funvia. Then a French gentleman sitting in front told us he’d let us know when the stop came. As we reached Taormina, he was saying the place may not be open, and the bus may stop elsewhere further, at least that’s what we thought. Then we figured he was trying to tell us if the cable car services is closed the bus will go further. The lady got off, and then came our stop. We knew it was our stop because the French guy was shouting, ‘Yes, light! Light!, meaning the Funvia was open. We thanked them all profusely for their kindness and helpful attitude. Wonderful people! Everyone on the bus wanted to make sure we got off at the right place! Took the cable car back, still basking in the kindness of the strangers. Amazing, really.

3/1/07

Back to Rome
Took the early Aeroporto bus to Catania airport, the ride takes 40 minutes or so and costs 9 euros. Luckily we asked at the counter if we could carry wine in the handbag. The answer is no. Worse, she said we couldn’t carry it in the check-in baggage either! We told her the wines very expensive and that we don’t get them in Singapore and that we are not going to leave it behind. NOPE. We told her we’ll pack it properly when she said it might be a danger to other passenger’s luggage as if luggage pieces were ghoing to have a party in the hold and create a ruckus. Went out, packed the wine bottles in the check in luggage, had them plastic wrapped, and checked in.

After a quick coffee and panini at the café, joined the chaotic bunch of passengers to get in. There was no system, no queue, it was one big knot moving slowly. Someone yelled at the staff to expedite as some of us had the 12 o clock flight to catch and it was already past 11.30. Suddenly, a ‘gate’ was opened and we went through, finished the formalities when the boarding was announced. 90 minutes, an orange juice and a biscuit packet later, we were in Rome, where we waited 45 minutes for the baggage to arrive. Incredible! Spent some more time figuring out where the Leonordo terminal was, as there were no clear signs. 40 minutes later, were at the Termini. A cheerful cabby took us to the Gea and charged only 5 euros. Agron welcomed us with a big smile and a bigger room.

Stepped out to Piazza Spagna, walked back in time as we saw the familiar Palio hotel, Del Corso and the Camper store, where we picked up some nice pairs of shoes. Went to Il Marguta, the vegetarian restaurant which we had liked onour last trip, but they were not open.Made a reservation for later, and walked to the same place where we had our first pizza the last time we came to Rome, at Canova. Had a Grappa this time though. Walked back to Il Marguta where we served by the same waiter who served us in 2004. Sated, walked back and reached hotel by 10.30.


4/1/07

Rome
Today was supposed to be spent in Florence. But when we went to the Termini to buy tickets, changed our mind as it didn’t make sense to spend all that money just to have coffee there. Went to Trevi and threw the coin with our back to it, just to be on the right side of the legend. Went to Palazzo Berberini instead. It’s a lovely museum close to the hotel. Of course the whole city is a museum. Just on the way to the P.Spagna, at a street corner, there are 4 intricate statues carved into the sides of the columns. It’s just there to be admired as you wait for the light to turn green. Walked up the Bernini staircase and down the one designed by Borromi. It has some lovely paintings, this museum. Lunch at a café specializing in ice-creams and flavoured chocolate drinks opposite Rinascente. Walked around, had coffee at Newscafe with a must-check-out toilet but that was closed for repair.

Walked around shopping for assorted stuff, found a shop that sold little trinkets with a copper theme as the woman running it likes copper (Luissella Mariotti on Via de Gesu). Had dinner at a place called la buvette, nice food. A faint drizzle made us buy a 5 euro umbrella from a Bangladeshi guy. For some reason, the Linea A was not working on both days, today and yesterday. Fail to understand how a platform can be closed! Back by 10 plus, packed and hit the bed.

5/1/07

Rome-Singapore
Up early, after a quick breakfast (didn’t see Francesca both days), paid the bill and checked out. Taxi to Termini, Leonardo express to Fumicino (you can buy tickets at the Termini where an office with a sign that says bigliette, Leonardo express etc). Reached the airport on time but spent a fair amount of time collecting the VAT. First, you check in your baggage, then you go to the place where they give you clearance, with your checked-in baggage, then you go back and check them in again, then clear immigration, then stand in another queue to get cash. If you are carrying VAT goods in your hand bag, then it you can just check your bag, and proceed to get the VAT. In the end, we just had enough time to buy a Grappa and start boarding. Rome airport is even bigger than Malpensa, Milan. It’s huge! So go there well in advance.


6/1/07
Reached home, everything intact, by Divine Grace.